The Outfit

Despite the old saying, clothes don’t make the man after all in The Outfit. Like its unassuming protagonist, there’s more to this small-scale thriller than a finely cut sportscoat and an exquisitely tailored pair of trousers.

The directorial debut of screenwriter Graham Moore (The Imitation Game) is an evocative character-driven period piece that might ultimately be a better fit on stage — featuring more talk than action and playing out over only a few nights in a single location.

Still, this fresh twist on a familiar crime saga benefits from an understated yet richly textured portrayal by Mark Rylance (Bridge of Spies) as an enigmatic clothier who’s fastidious and contemplative — kind of like the film itself.

The story is set in 1950s Chicago, where Leonard Burling (Rylance) is a British immigrant who owns an upscale shop specializing in bespoke suits. More specifically, he’s a “cutter” who shapes fabric, bristling at references otherwise. “Anyone with a needle and thread and 15 minutes can be a tailor,” he explains.

Burling is passionate and meticulously focused on his work. He apparently counts some notorious gangsters among his most loyal clientele, even acting as a sounding board and a refuge while maintaining a neutrality to their actions outside his walls.

However, don’t mistake his mild-mannered demeanor for passive indifference. He’s acutely aware of the danger that could infiltrate his treasured workspace at any moment, such as when Richie (Dylan O’Brien), the son of a mob boss, pays a late-night visit with Burling’s receptionist (Zoey Deutch), who’s taken a liking to him. Blood eventually is spilled, too, as a duplicitous rat and a missing tape complicate a feud with a rival syndicate.

Rylance provides the audience with an unlikely window into a maze of shifting loyalties and murky motives. Amid its swirling deception and betrayal, the real mystery is how much Burling knows and what he’s hiding.

The periphery roles aren’t as complex or compelling, which drains the deliberately paced film of some of its suspense and incentive for emotional investment until the obligatory big reveal. The script needs tighter stitching in its pear-shaped midsection.

Nevertheless, The Outfit regains its momentum thanks to some clever climactic twists while immersing us throughout in stylish period atmosphere — appropriate for a film with such an appreciation for fine craftsmanship.

Rated R, 106 minutes.